Geography
At 39° 40' northern latitude and 71°14' eastern longitude, Tajikistan is nestled between Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan to the north and west, China to the east, and Afghanistan to the south. With an area of 143,100 square kilometres, the country is the smallest nation in Central Asia by area - approximately equivalent to the combined size of England and Wales.
Its maximum east-to-west extent is 700 kilometres, and its maximum north-to-south extent is 350 kilometres. The country's highly irregular border is about 3,000 kilometres long, including 430 kilometres along the Chinese border to the east and 1,030 kilometres along the frontier with Afghanistan to the south. Most of the southern border with Afghanistan is set by the Amu Darya (darya is the Persian word for river) and its tributary the Panj River (Darya-ye Panj), which has headwaters in Afghanistan and Tajikistan.
Topography
Tajikistan is covered by mountains, and more than fifty percent of the country is over 3,000 metres (approx. 10,000 ft) above sea level. Even the lowlands, which are located in the Fergana Valley in the far north and in the southwest, are well above sea level. In the Turkestan range, highest of the western chains, the maximum elevation is 5,510 metres. The highest elevations of this range are in the southeast, near the border with Kyrgyzstan. That area is also home to the peaks of the Pamir-Alay mountain system, including two of the three highest elevations in the former Soviet Union: Mount Lenin (7,134 metres) and Mount Communism (7,495 metres). Several other peaks in the region also exceed 7,000 metres. The mountains contain numerous glaciers, the largest of which, Fedchenko Glacier, covers more than 700 square kilometres and is the largest glacier in the world outside the polar regions.
Tajikistan's major peaks are listed in the table below:
| Mountain | Height | Location |
|---|---|---|
| Ismoil Somoni Peak | 7,495 m | North of the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Province |
| Independence Peak | 7,174 m | Northern border in the Trans-Alay Range |
| Peak Korzhenievski | 7,105 m | Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Province |
| Avicenna Peak | 6,974 m | North of Ismail Samani Peak |
| Qatorkuhi Akademiyai Fanho | 6,785 m | Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Province |
| Qullai Karl Marks | 6,726 m | Southern border in the northern ridge of the Karakoram Range |
| Qullai Mayakovskiy | 6,096 m | Along the border to Afghanistan |
| Concord Peak | 5,469 m | Southern border in the northern ridge of the Karakoram Range |
| Kyzylart Pass | 4,280 m | Northern border in the Trans-Alay Range |
The Fergana Valley, the most densely populated region in Central Asia, spreads across northern Tajikistan from Uzbekistan on the west to Kyrgyzstan on the east. This long valley, which lies between two mountain ranges, reaches its lowest elevation of 320 metres at Khujand on the Syr Darya. Rivers bring rich soil deposits into the Fergana Valley from the surrounding mountains, creating a series of fertile oases that have long been prized for agriculture.
Drainage
There are over 900 rivers in Tajikistan over 10 kilometres in length. The principal rivers of Central Asia, the Amu Darya and the Syr Darya, both flow through Tajikistan, fed by melting snow and glaciers from the mountains of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan.
The Amu Darya carries more water than any other river in Central Asia. The upper course of the Amu Darya, called the Panj River, is 921 kilometres long. The river's name changes at the confluence of the Panj, the Vakhsh River, and the Kofarnihon rivers in far southwestern Tajikistan. The Vakhsh, called the Kyzyl-Suu upstream in Kyrgyzstan and the Surkhob in its middle course in north-central Tajikistan, is the second largest river in southern Tajikistan after the Amu-Panj system. In the Soviet era, the Vakhsh was dammed at several points for irrigation and electric power generation, most notably at Norak (Nurek), east of Dushanbe, where one of the world's highest dams forms the Norak Reservoir. Numerous factories also were built along the Vakhsh to draw upon its waters and potential for electric power generation.
The Syr Darya river, the second longest river in Central Asia, stretches 195 kilometres (of its total length of 2,400 kilometres) across the Fergana Valley in far-northern Tajikistan. Another important river, the Zarafshon, runs 316 kilometres (of a total length of 781 kilometres) through the centre of the country.
Tajikistan's rivers reach high-water levels twice a year: in the spring, fed by the rainy season and melting mountain snow, and in the summer, fed by melting glaciers. The summer freshets are the more useful for irrigation, especially in the Fergana Valley and the valleys of southeastern Tajikistan. Most of Tajikistan's lakes are of glacial origin and are located in the Pamir region. The largest, the Qarokul (Kara-Kul), is a salt lake devoid of life, lying at an elevation of 4,200 metres.
Environmental Issues
Most of Tajikistan's environmental problems are related to the agricultural policies imposed on the country during the Soviet period. By 1991, heavy use of mineral fertilizers and agricultural chemicals was a major cause of pollution in the republic. Among those chemicals were DDT, banned by international convention, and several defoliants and herbicides. In addition to the damage they have done to the air, land and water, the chemicals have contaminated the cottonseeds whose oil is used widely for cooking. Cotton farmers and their families are at particular risk from the overuse of agricultural chemicals, both from direct physical contact in the field and from the use of the branches of cotton plants at home for fuel. All of these toxic sources are believed to contribute to a high incidence of maternal and child mortality and birth defects. In 1994, the infant mortality rate was 43.2 per 1,000 births, the second highest rate among former Soviet republics.
Cotton requires particularly intense irrigation. In Tajikistan's cotton-growing regions, farms were established in large, semiarid tracts and in tracts reclaimed from the desert, but cotton's growing season is summer, when the region receives virtually no rainfall. The 50 percent increase in cotton cultivation mandated by Soviet and post-Soviet agricultural planners between 1964 and 1994 consequently overtaxed the regional water supply. Poorly designed irrigation networks led to massive runoff, which increased soil salinity and carried toxic agricultural chemicals downstream to other fields, the Aral Sea, and populated areas of the region.
By the 1980's, nearly 90 percent of water use in Central Asia was for agriculture. Of that quantity, nearly 75 percent came from the Amu Darya and the Syr Darya, the chief tributaries of the Aral Sea on the Kazakstan-Uzbekistan border to the northwest of Tajikistan. As the desiccation of the Aral Sea came to international attention in the 1980's, water-use policy became a contentious issue between Soviet republics such as Tajikistan, where the main rivers rise, and those farther downstream, including Uzbekistan. By the end of the Soviet era, the central government had relinquished central control of water-use policy for Central Asia, but the republics had not agreed on an allocation policy.
Industry also causes pollution problems. A major offender is the production of nonferrous metals. One of Tajikistan's leading industrial sites, the aluminium plant at Regar (also known as Tursunzoda), west of Dushanbe near the border with Uzbekistan, generates large amounts of toxic waste gases that have been blamed for a sharp increase in the number of birth defects among people who live within range of its emissions.
In 1992 the Supreme Soviet of Tajikistan established a Ministry of Environmental Protection. However, the enforcement activity of the ministry was limited severely by the political upheavals that plagued Tajikistan in its first years of independence. The only registered private environmental group in Tajikistan in the early 1990s was a chapter of the Social-Ecological Alliance, the largest informal environmental association in the former Soviet Union. The Tajik branch's main functions have been to conduct environmental research and to organize protests against the Roghun Hydroelectric Plant project.
